Day 23 To Leon
Day 23 October 1 Destination = Leon at last! / 321 km = 199.46 mi. to go, but who’s counting. I’m definitely in a little state of shock of how long I’ve been on the road and how far I’ve walked. The body is holding up all things considered but I do have to get into the groove of a afternoon siesta and try to shake the relatively consistent daily fatigue. I am also in a little state of shock over the fact that tomorrow will be October 1 - wow! I’ve been gone a long time, indeed. Also a little anxiety over the fact of 16 more days to Santiago and almost 200 miles but I’m really looking forward to walking across Galicia as I’ve stated earlier. Some walking days will be shorter but with significant elevation changes. And likely; more precipitation. A poncho will be much more comfortable rain gear and I will shop for one, along with that warmer long sleeve wool shirt. Once again I woke to a 45° F ( 7C ) morning, and while wearing all three of my shirts works to start out clearly not an ideal set up.
“I am a slow walker, but I never walk back.”
– Abraham Lincoln
‘Honest Abe’ never gave up. One of the greatest leaders the US has ever had and one of the greatest leaders of all time in general. He was born into poverty, lost his mom in a young age, tried to get into law school but failed, went bankrupt a couple of times and had big debts, his fiancée died tragically, he got fired from his job, lost 8 different elections, but he never quit, eventually became president and guided America through an intense moral and constitutional crisis. On January 1, 1863, Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation which started the procedure for freeing the slaves in America
He never stopped ‘walking
Leon today and Astorga (Monday) is the end of La Meseta and then its on to … ‘A Santiago’
I made Leon! I saw the cathedral from the outside but it’s closed till four. I sat on a bench, admiring it, had a bocadillo and a banana and a 1L box of jugo de naranja.🥴
What I saw of the old part of the city was a little touristy but not unexpected. Lotsa people. Good news is I came across the outdoor store that I was going to be looking for, went in, and settled on a rain poncho, ( it’ll be much better than my rain jacket) as well as a wool long sleeve top. That’s the good news. The bad news the combined weight of both items is 1 pound which equals 5% of my current pack weight- oh yeah, I noticed the 5% big time - now I’m up to 73 items so where can I shed a pound now that I’ve added a pound of new weight. I will take a hard look at all of the unused items now that I am in my hostal overlooking a park.
Mountains off to the north but I am heading west
On approach to Leon with 2 km to go
Pretty spectacular but unfortunately closed until four - 2 1/2 hours from now. Construction started in the 13th century but was not finished until the 14th century - features over 1800 m² of medieval stainglass windows which I wish I could’ve seen. I’m going to a museum instead
Alfonso IX El Rey de Leon 1188-1230 is pretty famous here. He is best known for taking steps towards modernizing and democratizing his dominion and founded the University of Salamanca in 1212. In 1188 he summoned the first parliament reflecting the fullest representation of the citizenry ever seen in Western Europe, the Cortes of León (source=wiki). It appears he accomplished much in his life and was well liked. He made the ‘final cut’ and is buried at the Cathedral in Santiago
The Convento de San Marcos contains the Museo San Marcos and opens at five - this one I’m not going to miss since I’m staying just down the street across the bridge. Initially, I inquired about the attached Hostal since they had that ‘H’ symbol on the outside of the building. I thought, wow, hey I’m in luck - looks like it meets my minimum quality standards. Turns out it’s a parador or luxury hotel and when I inquired about the room availability and the rate. She said “si, senor, no problema”. Starting at 188€ a night. 😳 Nope. Stayed across the bridge down the street overlooking that beautiful park
A monument across from the ‘Convento’ dedicated to ‘the Peregrino’ at the cross roads of two different ways to get to Santiago
I like the repose in this sculpture a great deal. Sums up how my days are usually ending - sitting down and looking up in gratitude. Shoes, most definitely off
Cafe con leche to go was a no-brainer as I walked by it this namesake
Risk Management on such a long walk
There are risks on the Camino but they are relatively few in the big scheme of things. The number one greatest issue is not having prepared your feet and footwear and ‘dialing in’ that combination before you arrive in Spain. I have observed over and over those that have big foot problems admit they really didn’t do all that much walking back home or invest in a brand new pair of walking shoes or boots that are up to task of this level of walking. For some, it ruined their experience.
I think a close second is not being careful where you place your feet as you walk. While there are not many hazards the primary issue would stepping off a curb, a step, or the trail and rolling and spraining your ankle. I know of at least one who has done this thereby creating a multi day setback. I have come close to doing it multiple times (weekly) not the least of which is carrying a cuppa coffee outside and not paying attention to stepping down the proverbial step out of the cafe.
I think number three would be not drinking enough water or taking precaution to carefully select fountains that you can take water from and those you shouldn’t.
And lastly, and maybe most importantly - not listening to what your body is telling you on any given day could (likely) result in an injury to joints, tendons, or muscles. I talked to many people who are very proud of their 30 and 40 km days only to (sheepishly) admit they paid the piper big-time for days afterwards.
Walking alone?
I personally do not think there are measurable risks to walking alone on the Way either as a male or female. There is an app called Alertcops that most of us have downloaded on our phone. And many carry a whistle on their pack within reach. Even at dawn many are already walking alone
Watching your step. A 2.5m drop - straight down. Twisted ankle minimally, broken leg likely. Not exactly the same attention to hazards by the local municipal public works department
Convento de San Marcos. When I got my credential stamped (sello) at the convent / monastery I asked if I could get into the cloisters . They said no since I was not staying in their hotel but after consideration and knowing that I was a pilgrim they changed their mind and let me in for self guided tour - Minnesota nice
The main sanctuary 16th century
Separate museum area
I was allowed special access to the cloister. I probably did four laps because there was a lot of detail that I missed first pass
Carved family coat of arms of all the royalty and nobility linked to the Order of Santiago in Leon region from very long ago. The history of the centuries spoke volumes. I wish I could have been a fly on the wall in those times
A carved nativity scene. by Juan de Juni
This dated stone altar is considered a masterpiece by the French sculptor Juan of Juni (ca. 1532) and one of the most outstanding pieces in the monumental complex of San Marcos. “The Nativity scene, in the centre of which appear St Joseph, Jesus and Virgin Mary, is remarkable for its original Renaissance perspective, in an urban setting with superb classicist buildings”
The darkest period in the monastery of San Marcos's five centuries of history is concentrated in just four years last century. During the course of the Spanish Civil War cells, rooms, stables, cloisters, church, choir, museum and every fast corner of the building were transformed into impromptu dungeons or jailers' offices. Between July 1936 and the end of 1940, up to 7,000 men and 300 women were imprisoned at the same time. It is estimated that, over the entire war and the period immediately following, the number of militia members and political prisoners that passed through its cells totaled some 20,000. In the province of Leon, around 3,000 deaths are recorded due to the repression, and a good number of these came from the dungeons of San Marcos. (Source- wiki)
