Gear & Weight I brought too much end of story. 2023 Camino update = same thoughts. Just shy of 20% of the stuff I brought (a dozen items of 70) I never used, and could have purchased locally if actually needed. Some of the items in 2023 were not used (sleeping bag) but I brought it for cool weather contingencies. I would not have changed this approach. My current (total) pack weight as of is approximately 10 kg (this does include the pack weight itself, 2 half liter water bottles and some food (add appx. 7 kg). My 2.5 changes (max) of clothing consisting of one pair of shorts and one pair of long hiking pants with a zip off legs. Longsleeve and short sleeve shirt and something were to wear over the top of either when it’s cold - In 2021 I ended up buying a long sleeve wool top in Leon that I brought back in 2023 (very good idea - late September mornings can be chilly). Absolutely nothing made out of cotton (too heavy, especially when wet). My backpack is a 50 L Osprey and is 3.5 pounds empty. Yes many use smaller 35-40L but the extra space is very handy and mine doesn’t really weigh much more that your smaller pack - so there ! I won’t belabor the whole list but the short answer is only those those things that you would use every day should be in your pack! Nada mas! I have 71 items in my possession and as you can guess I violated this rule. The 5 best friends that you have are: #1) my backpack - Osprey Anti Gravity 50L #2) hiking poles - Black Diamond ULZ 3) footwear/socks magic combo - Oboz in 2021 and HOKA Speedgoat in 2023 + Darn Tough wool 4) sombrero (necessario) - Tilly Airflo. 5) a poncho Sierra Designs jacket (to sweaty but a great windbreaker). On 10/1/21 - I bought a poncho in Leon that’ll be much more comfortable than my rain jacket (never had to use it !). However, my rain jacket ended up being VERY handy as a windbreaker multiple times on chilly WINDY mornings. The change to HOKA ultralight ‘trail runners’ was a major superior decision ! Way way better - Not event the hint of a blister. I would probably chose the ‘high top, ankle high’ version of this shoe next time for better support against a possible ankle twist on some of the more ‘sketchy’ rocky paths.

Laundry The general rule of thumb is you’ve brought 2 (max) complete changes of clothing and one warm item -it adds up to about seven to ten pieces. Yup, that’s right. End of each day you wash what (in the small Albergue sink available sink or when you take a shower !) you’ve sweated through to the 10th° that day. If you did not dry it at night or overnight you were simply pin it to your pack on the outside and dry it while you walk. My pack has 18 places to hang stuff from on the outside. These loops are there for a reason. I used them

Eating & Nutrition My resting metabolism is 2000 cal a day I am guessing I should be eating at least 3000 or more daily (close to 4000 calories when biking in 2023) and this is easier said than done based on the simple fact that we all usually set out to start walking for the day before any of the restaurants open or serve desayunos - usually a little before sunrise. Carbohydrates (baguette), hard boiled eggs or Spanish tortillas (eggs and potato soufflé), croissants (Napolitana - the chocolate one!), nuts and cheese and cured meat are a major source daily for everyone. VERY necessary to be attentive to calorie intake throughout the day. Getting some groceries at end of day for early a.m. was a superior idea I didn’t adopt till late in my camino. Dinner usually does not start until at least 1930 or 2000 or later! It appears that wine (Tinto or Rioja) cervezas, and Coca-Cola are a good source of extra calories by all- I’m in ! I’ll take it where I can get it! Pulpo- octopus - is huge when we hit Galicia! And tapas and pinxtos by region at bar rest stops. My goal is to try all 10 pastry types. Additionally, I personally swear by supplements and brought a third of a pound; my main go-tos are glucosamine for my joints, turmeric, and Vitamin C & D. Personal decision

Banos/ Aseos Surprise, there are few on the Camino trail, therefore it is most advantageous to go when you can in the morning (once or twice - thanks mom) or when you are at a bar / restaurant for a café or at comidas! The little packets of tissues are a lifesaver as well as tp rolls when they are down to 1/3 size (which I appropriated when I stayed in a private room vs. shorting someone in an albergue where tp can be in very short supply depending on when you roll out of bed and head to the WC!

Informal survey of why other people are walking the Camino - I may or may not fill in this section as the reasons I’ve heard expressed are intensely personal, all over the map, stereotype, and really don’t paint a good picture of the real ‘why I chose to walk’ the Camino de Santiago. Yes, many are walking to process a failed relationship or are trying to parse what should come next in their life, career change, etc. All agree, once walking, it is hard to articulate or describe the deeper ‘why’ in real time- so very experiential for everyone. Amazingly I have met no shortage of Perigrinos that are on there second, fourth (Lars & the French couple), or sixteenth Caminos! Why do they (and I) all return. Can’t really explain the magic, you’ll have to go for yourself! My somewhat vague response shown below, and as painted in my pictures, and occasional quotations I like and share, may hint at mine…

Social Everyone walks at a different pace. We start out in groups in the morning - the groups generally spread out and it’s not uncommon that half of us are soon walking alone until we get to the next whistle stop. Often, half to 3/4 of my day is solo walking. Even though we’ve only met or known each other for a very brief period of time there is great excitement and camaraderie at the end of the day when you see a friend that you just met that morning or the night before. Such a bond makes for a walking buddy the next morning ! Often times the small groups merge together into a larger walking ‘peloton’ and regroup in an evening meal and happy hour fiesta. The next day is a repeat. Eventually most groups evolve and change as you walk different distances and speeds and meet new people. Rumor has it there’s a lot of jubilation at Santiago when you see others that you haven’t seen for 30 days. This happened to me in 2023 and was tearfully joyful. The sad ending reality for all is that everyone has to hop on the airplane and go back to their own ‘realities’. It is the memories, the friendships created, and lessons learned that will ‘endure’ for a lifetime. In 2023 toward the end of the Camino when the Primitivo merged with the Frances we should have taken advantage of getting up and walking in the dark 6-6:30 am (with headlamp) and have a quiet trail and get AHEAD of the masses. We did this one day and it was fabulous! Walked under the stars, 2 visible planets and a full moon! Should I walk another Camino I will be much for intentional about walking before sunrise.

Itinerary While there are ‘formal stages’ suggested and indicated in all of the resources and guidebooks available -what I am finding out is the very best itinerary for me is;

a) what my body is telling me for daily mileage limits to keep from becoming injured
b) finding my own Camino rhythm. Friend Holger calls this ‘the flow’
c) not overthinking booking ahead while being sensible when closer to Santiago when the crowds dramatically increase

At this early juncture I know that I should not exceed 20 km days and am planning my daily ending points no more than two or three days in advance accordingly. Also, the whole concept of agenda, (guidebook suggested) sightseeing, and worry about getting a room for the next night or two that I see some fall into is spoiling the overall experience, flexibility, and unique cadence of the Camino for me. In 2023 I found the 20 mile days excessive and probably contributed to an ankle injury that haunted me for the last half of the Primitivo.

Aches, Pains, Illness, or Injury
It is clear at least one of these happens to every Peregrino or Peregrina on Camino. Many of us have one new issue every couple of days. Numero Uno = blisters. For me after 35 days it was my ankles go figure. Followed by rotation of aches in knees, hips, foot, calves, shoulders, back, or shins. Me early on knees, hips. These inflammations eventually healed and dissipated. I’ve seen some looking close to debilitated by ankle sprain, shin splints, or blisters. Often likely avoidable with more rigorous training prior to arriving in Spain or poor choice of shoes that weren’t properly broken in. I’ve since learned of two people that broke their ankles. Amazingly, the body generally gets acclimated with passing mileage and I’m personally optimistic with yet a long way to go. I now know my limits on daily max kilometers should hover around 20.
Hydration: you DO have to be sensible as to which public fountains to fill bottles at (every village has one or more)- some are labeled as safe, others labeled “no tratada” or “no es potable” are not safe.

Personally, I am trusting Iglesia Fuentes… gotta be ‘holy water’, right 😎 ? !

2022-2024 - Web Site Maintenance
I will continue to add commentary, as appropriate, after I return and as it comes to me, post facto, to help more accurately remember what actually happened in higher resolution and detail, for my own benefit, and to inspire you, future pilgrim, to walk your own Camino en su vida. Eventually I’ll consolidate into a book with copies for my family and the possibility of a .pdf download for public consumption. In the mean time feel free to email me and I would be happy to mentor including those of you considering a bicigrino Camino experience.

Buen Camino !