Day 16 to La Mesa
19 September 2023 Day 15 destination Berducelo via Hospitales route 27km (19 miles) 40000 steps. Quite a difficult long day climbing the mountain, but passed quickly due to the extreme beauty
The Hospitales route at last ! Weather looks like it will make it a go! (if it’s remotely doubtful that we have a rain / storm free day. we will take the other route.)
The biggest milestone stage on the Primitivo comes towards the end of the Asturian section of the pilgrimage, when pilgrims are faced with the choice of taking the Hospitales route and climbing to 1214m, or the lower-elevation Pola de Allande route. The Hospitales route is not advisable in poor weather, but when we were faced with the decision, it hadn’t rained the previous two days and none was forecast for today!
Ultreia !
In this image, we start at the red arrow and head west, which is heading left on this graphic you can see the elevation change, and the two routes. We will attempt the Hospitales route versus the alternate one with all of the little towns. It is a long and un- supported stage- all are advised to bring enough water and food to get through an eight hour day. Consequently, we will have to set out as early as possible this morning, and hope for no fog during the start and no appearance of afternoon, rain or storms -as of now none are forecast.
The route is named for the presence of three hospitals (ruins) that during the Middle Ages gave shelter or medical assistance to the pilgrims who had to take this path.
Okay Hospitales-Let’s do this!
Last chance to decide which route to take
Morning ‘Wabana’ light was stunning today. We started in that valley yonder.
The only www I’m on. I’ve been off all news, internet, and social media for a month- hallelujah! A beautiful mental ‘reset’
Trail is exceptionally well marked due to frequent niebla (fog) rain or snow in the mountains especially spring and late fall. Later on, wooden ‘flechas’ arrows every 100m or so
Part of the ‘Why’ needing no explanation. This ultimately became my favorite picture of the entire Camino! from which I had a wall size canvas made
Bessie says “buy queso from Asturias next time at supermercado! “ 🐄
Once again, continuing to become a shadow of my former self
Just incredible to be at a sub alpine level and such an elevation on a day like this. We heard the days leading up to our day and those days after were not very weather conducive to these panoramic views
This meadow was rather busy as we passed thru…their turf! These are wild horses
Glad to be off bicycle……good luck, Mary !
We summited, and here was what awaited us on the other side -equally beautiful. You would think it was all downhill from there, but not exactly the case: up and down up and down the decents however, in several places, were approximately 30° grade. I do not exaggerate! -very difficult on the knees and ankles. Very short baby steps with poles
We had a nice lunch off to the side here.
Summit Success !
Now, descend the other side
Here the path is very, very narrow. With shrubbery brushing both sides of you. The trail becomes very steep at times, almost a 30° grade …..and lo and behold, who comes blazing by five minutes later… the owner of the bicycle tracks I see intermittently along the walkers path. I always look at these fresh tracks in disbelief - meet Mary-
Greetings, Mary. I would not characterize her as crazy at all. I had a great conversation with her. She is very daring however, in a very skilled rider -she likes the down hills even on all that nasty sketchy, rocky slippery stuff. Falling over to the left on today’s trail would result in a fall from 10 to 20 or more meters straight down!
I asked if she brought her own bike or rental she said rental I said I’ll bet you were glad you have a dropper post for all the decents.. She said the bike is garbage. No dropper post cables are stretched. I felt bad for her as it introduces high risk, especially without a dropper post on the seat.
Also, without full suspension, it must be very uncomfortable hours upon hours, feeling all of those bumps and rocks
I asked if she has fallen very many times and she said no not yet. I asked about flat tires, and she said no not yet. Don’t ask anymore questions that could curse me. We laughed.
Considering her daily mileage and extreme difficulty she didn’t appear tired at all
Mary no worse for the wear… she is in very very good physical condition ! A solo Peregrina en bici at that ! Inspiring !
Once at the Albergue in Aldea la Mesa, everyone worked equally hard to relax and unwind. The shoes come off first ! It was a difficult day for all… plenty of satisfaction to go around, during happy hour; Gin, Vino, or Cervesa - or a combination thereof! Everyone was rather, tired at this point - blessed again with awesome weather 22C and sunny
The beauty of staying in a hostel is as stated before you meet the most wonderful adventuresome people like Lucas here from the south of Italy in Bologna, I got some wonderful travel ideas for Sicily and eastern Italy along the coast!
Yo, Stefan (deutschland), Holger, Tania (Mexico) at another wonderful Albergue near Grandas de Salime. We all share the joy of Camino without a care in the world - cherishing the moment is the modus operandi.
Map shows common Etapas (stages). Most towns were our daily overnights as well !
What surprised me most: How incredibly satisfying it is to finish for the day, relax, relive the highlights, and share the joy of being with other strangers who, with the briefest of conversations, become friends.
Favorite moment of the day: the meadow with the wild horses, por supuesto
“Though here at journey’s end I lie in darkness buried deep, beyond all towers strong and high, beyond all mountains steep, above all shadows rides the sun and stars forever dwell: I will not say the day is done, nor bid the stars farewell”
~Samwise Gamgee
