Day 13 to Salas
16 September 2023 Day 13 destination Salas, Asturias 40000 steps = 19 miles > 4000 calories burned (over did it today)
Day two on the Primitivo was a very difficult day, easier said than done to end the day at precise mileages. I’ll have to explain later. Now siesta before dinner at 8:00pm in 2 hours. Suffice it to say tomorrow absolute cutoff for end time 3:30-4:00 non negotiable. I’ll have to ‘suggest’ such a plan to ‘ambitious’ Holger.
We are trying to space our daily mileage to get to the edge of a famous Ridgeline - the Hospitales Route, so that we can start it first thing in the morning couple of days out. It’s going to turn out to be just too much daily mileage to make that work out. We need to focus on body health, joint health, muscle health tendon health.
The other complicating factor is many of these small towns that have hostels that would accommodate varied schedules are shuttered either the hostels are closed for the season, or they failed as a business.
We also need a weather window to hike this mountain ridge as it’s a full day hike -up and over- with no accommodations anywhere along it, and hiking this ridgeline cannot be done in inclement weather it would be dangerous. In fact the yellow arrow markers are spaced close together to make navigation possible in the heavy niebla (fog)
My guess is we’ll make today short and tomorrow normal distance to get us close to the ridge. But right now both of our calves are pretty ripped up
Epic Asturian countryside is absolutely as beautiful as promoted. Other than the Pyrenees on the Frances we believe our ruta is more challenging physically due to the climbing, but thankfully of shorter (2 week) duration. For those of you without the luxury of a month long Camino the Primitivo is a great one!
Map is good of today’s progress. We start near Grado and ended at other (left) end. Our elevation change was brutal and reads from right to left / mountainous start, downhill then followed by an all day climb (to La Venta) visible 😵💫
Don’t know them but I like the picture and the fact they are hiking as a couple
I see a pair of mountain bike tracks! Even if ebikes it is a non tenable situation to ride this trail- miserably bumpy stony rocky… slick mud / just plain dangerous. Buena suerte ciclistas, Buen suerte
Tired hombre, still an hour to go with thunder off in the distance
267 km to go, about 12-13 days. At this point I believe I can manage the 13-15 mile days to get to the goal line. I am clearly ‘concerned’ about my legs and ankles
Beautiful hórreo restored as a bunkhouse
Many common areas to chill, relax, journal and chat with fellow pilgrims
Daily laundry done here hand washed in bathroom shower area
Home sweet home for the nite at Salas, showered, laundry done (2 items) siesta. What a great beautifully remodeled farm / hostel. The group fixed plate- one option- pilgrim meal dinner was outstanding!
I had a kale like lentil soup and bread (stomach still not 100%) followed by chicken cutlets ( all I could smell upstairs during siesta was garlic -yay ! My postre choice was yogurt (for medicinal reasons)
This was the best Albergue I’ve ever stayed in thus far - see web link to get an idea of layout - lafigaldexugabolos.es
Dinner here all tables filled with peregrinos
Outdoor lounge was magnificent !
Camino wisdom of the day
Highlight of the day: siesta at my favorite albergue (yet) anywhere on Camino!
“Human life, from the cradle to the grave, is a school. At every period of his existence man wants a teacher. His pilgrimage upon earth is but a term of childhood, in which he is to be educated for the manhood of a brighter world. As the child must be educated for manhood upon earth, so the man must be educated upon earth, for heaven; and finally that where the foundation is not laid in time, the superstructure can not rise for eternity.”
~ John Quincy Adams
