Day 24 to Cruceiro
27 September 2023 Day 24 destination Cruceiro 24 km our penultimate day to Santiago with lots and lots of people, but we also had lots and lots of time walking alone later in the day. It’s typical because most start out their day earlier than we did ( 6-6:30 am) got to destination earlier so the later you walk the fewer people we saw.
It is strange and wonderful to cross this bridge that I crossed two years ago in a land so far away, anyway, this bridge is exactly 50 km to go to Santiago believe it or not
Always a good reminder to look behind you when you’re walking forward to see what is happening. Holger reminded me to turn around and this is the ‘Wabana light’ - earliest light of the day as we left Melide!
This is the oldest stone cross in Galicia at the edge of town leaving Melide
***A cruceiro is a monument consisting of a stone cross on a pillar, built mainly at crossroads or next to churches. They can be seen throughout Galicia, but also in Portugal and other places in northern Spain.
They are one of the most representative elements of the Galician landscape and were built as a means of protection for travellers on these roads in ancient times. There are currently more than 12,000 cruceiros (stone crosses) scattered throughout Galicia.
As you know, I am always taking pictures of them when I come to a crossroad
They are also closely linked to the legend of the Santa Compaña, a procession of souls in pain who wandered the roads at night. Those who encountered the Santa Compaña were captured to lead the parade of souls in pain. For protection, the safest way was to run to a cruceiro, where the souls had no power to capture you.
History of the oldest cruceiro in Galicia
The Cruceiro de Melide is considered the oldest in Galicia, it is Gothic in style and dates back to the 14th century. It is located in the heart of the town of Melide, next to the church of San Roque.
The front of the cruceiro depicts a seated Christ in Majesty with wounds in his hands and a cloth covering his legs. On the reverse is a Calvary, a crucified Christ accompanied by the figures of Saint John and the Virgin.
Those ancient laundromats are fairly common In the hinterland of Spain, they look like an oddity today, but they are actually still in use as you can see. Freshwater from an artesian spring enters the basin, and if the other end is a scrub board for working the clothing clean, I was surprised because here I see somebody doing their daily wash wow
Here is a variation on the theme, left side bathtub size wash basin or you can water the pigs or cows on the right side is the water source or fountain for freshwater yes, it’s drinkable! Two years ago I happened upon acquaintance, Peregrina, Sylvia, getting her water and brushing her teeth. She was tent camping the whole Camino no formal accommodations whatsoever.!
BELOW:
another cool wall mural on a building done during the Jacobean year 2021 when I walked the Frances dedicated to the ‘special year’ pilgrimage of Camino
Oh my goodness now that we are on the Camino Frances we passed another familiar place that we both stayed at but on different days -an albergue called ‘El Aleman’ - ‘the German’
12:01 pm. Totally legit time to have a beer before we continue on for another 15 km. We also got our cello stamp to document our progress along the Camino necessary for our compostella
My credential is getting filled up. I only have five remaining spots for stamps. You are supposed to obtain two per day to document your daily progress. Obviously the last one is the cathedral in Santiago.
I will miss these forests of such otherworldly dimensions
So it was my turn to pick the lodging. This one looked good on the Internet but Holger disagrees and says “Tom this is the nightmare on Elm Street”. Cut me some slack. I pick one dud and you throw me under the bus of Freddie Krueger. The lentil soup was actually pretty good, and the ubiquitous baguette bread took up the slack in calorie fulfillment
BELOW:
Minimally every other day, first item on the agenda after checking in, is to get the laundry done. This is typical outdoor wash basin clothesline around the corner. I had six items to wash and onto the line they go. It’s typically a damp night so they will finish drying hanging on my backpack walking during the day, everybody does this (men and women, boys and girls ) it’s not one of my oddities
Most hostels and Albergues have a communal kitchen that pilgrims can cook meals either individually or more communally for a contributory joint effort group dinner. I have not chosen to participate in this for a variety of reasons, but it’s pretty cool that it’s common and people all chip in different things they either bought or having their backpacks to make a group dinner. Most interestingly pictured here is a dad and his two sons that are walking their first family Camino the boys are seven and twelve and I asked the dad from Australia about their Camino and he said they walk anywhere from 7 to 12 miles which is enough for the boys and it is achievable! 100 US miles in all. Wow what a life experience
Soil is freshly turned over for the simple reason they harvested the potatoes
Dinner company-Ladies from Italia ( 2 on first Caminos, 1 Camino continuation from one started years ago. - she’s absolutely thrilled to be completing it! ) Carson (self admitted 5 Camino addict) from Denmark.
Highlight of the day: forest lunch break - 82% dark chocolate, dried plumbs, blue cheese and Wasa crackers
What surprised me most: Camino is almost ‘over’
Quote provided by Catherine at dinner (back left)
“The hill Is never going higher than the sky
~ Catherine Ramauger
