Day 9 to Llanes

12 September 2023 Day 9 - a 50 km day

Up and down day. All in all quite memorable as the kilometers ‘flew by’

Wow! It just hit me. I only have three cycling days left in Spain. Where did the first week go? I am a bit sad that it is going so quickly but am really looking forward to walking the entire Primitivo with Herr Holger soon. The original Camino that started it all in the 10th century.

Oyambre Natural Park is formed by the estuaries of San Vicente de la Barquera and La Rabia which, with beaches, dunes and the great expanse of Monte Corona, form one of the most beautiful and well-preserved natural parks in Cantabria. This pristine natural area covers 5,758 hectares and, along with the Saja-Besaya Natural Park (over 24,500 hectares) and Liencres Dunes (only 257 hectares), is one of the largest natural parks in Cantabria. That is, of course, not counting the Picos de Europa National Park which extends throughout more than 64,000 hectares in Cantabria, Asturias, and Leon.

It was declared a Natural Park on November 21, 1988 and has since been a protected place and a reserve for water birds.

Playa de Oyambre. As always fabulous panoramas on the horizon

Most of the descent into towns at the beginning of the Camino Norte end up going along the Playa, or the beach. Most of them are really really good beaches for relaxing, sunning, and surfing, or swimming whether small or large.

“Okay / vale” it’s simply time to pull off the side of the road and have my first café con Leche ! Well, the Spanish tortilla looked fresh off the stove and delish but I just don’t have the appetite quite fully back to stuff the carbs and protein in mid-morning. I should but my appetite is ‘iffy’. My tummy is getting better at last….however

Turns out I found out that I did get out of Comillas just-in-time as the La Vuelta bike race blew through there about two hours after I left town. This also caused a delay in my backpack being shipped by Espana mail service (Correos) to my next hotel, but lo and behold it arrived reception just as I was checking in literally (5 hour delay). It all worked out, I just need to be more patient

Note the speeds on those bikers today I’m graphic below. Unbelievable. (My average speed was 10 km/hr) compared to their 40 km/hr - wow ! The tour is a month-long event with only a handful of rest days for the riders.

Leaving Unquera was a brutal- uphill steep climb for a couple of kilometers- and I mean straight up- as in pushing the bike with me leaning in about a 15° angle to do it but as the trail leveled out on the ridge line here is what you’ll enjoy taking a rest stop at! A little shrine to St. Shimano - patron saint of deraillers (I just made that up). I gave thanks before moving on. Minor detail 30 Celsius, and no shade and on the hunt for more water and a coca cola

I had to swerve to avoid this little creature. This little guy who reminded me of who the most meditative insect on the Camino de Santiago is! Well of course it’s a praying mantis.👻

End of todays ride I focused on a biker up ahead of me which gave me motivation to keep up with him to try to beat what looks like a building storm creating a race to get to town before any deluge . It actually did not materialize but you can see how quickly the weather can come up on the Catabrian and Asturias coast. By the way, when I stopped at a gas station for a water refill and to grab a fresh baked baguette (yup, fresh bread baked in the gas station ) …..look at what the headlines were from what happened in Santandar last night - ‘Las Tormentas Inundate!’
Remember I left Santandar two days ago !!!
Aye Carumba!

As I stated, I can’t believe I was there two nights ago, leaving just in the nick of time it appears. This would’ve been an awful start to a cycling day to say the least

Wow, was today’s lodging a quite a surprise! My lodging hotel, the Don Paco was previously is 17th century convent of the order of the Augustinas Recoletas. Construction began in 1660 but due to historical events was not quite finished off in 1666 when the architect died. As can often be the sequence of events the building started out as a convent, then become a military barracks, then a college, and now this hotel.

More about the Asturias Region (possibly the best kept secret in Europe? !)

Asturias is particularly famous for its beautiful landscape. With its impressive mountain ranges and over 200 stunning beaches along the 345-km long coast, the area boasts a broad entertainment offering. About a third of Asturias has the status of protected nature reserve, and UNESCO has named four specific nature reserves of particular interest. Certain unusual natural phenomena Asturias is famous for confirm the impression that the region’s offering goes beyond the ordinary.

Indeed, Asturias is one of the oldest kingdoms in the Iberian Peninsula and its cities and villages are shrouded in its old, millenary traditions. Despite the growing tourist industry, the traditional rural character - or rustic if you will - is well-preserved in the Asturian architecture and way of life. It is precisely this attachment to old-day traditions that makes Asturias immensely charming and an outstanding vacation area.

Asturias offering ranges from modern cities to rather secluded areas that few tourists visit. These areas and cities offer many special sightseeing experiences you will rarely find anywhere else in Europe. By the same token, this goes to show that modern society has not claimed all European land yet. Interestingly enough, people in these remote villages, typically up in the mountains, does not consider themselves poor, but lead a self-sufficient live on small farming or family owned plots and grow much of what the eat year around including fruits and nuts (small well tended orchards)

Even if more tourists have woken up to the unique charm of these villages, they are still far from being overrun. I’ll be back, if nothing more than to hang out on some of the best beaches I’ve ever been on.

As stated from my previous Camino, Spain has the best Dahlia varieties I’ve ever seen anywhere, as well as other beautiful, flora, not seen in the United States

Fuchsia Boliviana or ‘lady eardrops’

Llanes promenade peaceful relaxed welcoming

Beautiful paseo to walk thru near my hotel when coming back from my every other night gelato run (pistachio, of course) or returning from the nearby beach

Playa del Sabion

Great little contained and safe beach. I love swimming in the ocean. It’s a great way to cool off. I’ve done it several times already - tonight was just not the night. I need to eat and get some calories in the tank and take a siesta ….I love taking a siesta before I go to bed. 👻. I generally dont’ run around and sight see end of day due to fatigue.

Sidra bars (hard apple cider) are popular all throughout Asturias. As I walked to a recommded bar for a good seafood dinner (hopefully paella) I witnessed a Sidra being served up to some patrons. Sidra is poured blindly over the shoulder without spilling a drop…. !

Tonights calories were a wonderful best ever seafood paella. I asked for a smaller portion but received enough to easily feed a family of 4! and enough bread for 8! It was hand crafted culinary excellence. Now I know what to do with fresh clams and mussels when home. What an easy to make delicacy !

Highlight of the day: Passing by seaside towns, looking at the surfers and beach bums and really not thinking about anything in particular

“And thus ever by day and night, under the sun and under the stars, climbing the dusty hills and toiling along the weary plains, journeying by land and journeying by sea, coming and going so strangely, to meet and to act and react on one another, move all we restless travelers through the pilgrimage of life.”

- Charles Dickens